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Friday, November 29, 2013
Level 14: Advanced Sail-trim on all courses
Headsail Trim:
1. Lead position. This means setting the lead angle and fore-aft position of the sheet lead. The fore-aft lead is positioned by drawing an imaginary line from midluff through the clew to the deck. Midluff is the point at the luff directly ahead of the second set of telltales. Fine-tune the lead position by slowly rounding into the wind and watching the telltales. All the weather telltales should flip up at once, indicating that the top and bottom of the sail are trimmed equally. If the top luffs first, move the lead forward; if the bottom luffs first, move the lead back. It is best to err on the side of too far back. This increases twist and gives the sail a larger "sweet spot".
2. Trim. Trim the sail close to, but not touching, the spreaders. The optimum trim may put the leech slightly in or out from this setting, with some variation according to sea and wind conditions.
3. Halyard Tension. Use halyard tension to pull the draft forward, but do not tension the halyard so much that you get a vertical wrinkle behind the headstay. Never overtension the halyard, watch the halyard marks.
4. Adjustments. In flat water and medium air, trim harder and move the lead angle in-board to flatten the sail and narrow the angle of attack. Tighten the backstay to reduce headstay sag and flatten the entry. In waves, ease the sheet, move the lead outboard, and sail lower angles to maintain speed. Ease the halyard slightly and ease the backstay if the rig doesn't move around too much. For heavy air, move the lead outboard, but keep the sheet and halyard in hard to keep the sail flat. Move the lead aft to free the upper leech and flatten the head--tolerate a slightly earlier luff in the top of the sail if necessary. For very light winds, move the lead outboard, ease the sheet and move the lead forward enough to maintain an even break along the luff. Use light backstay and halyard tension, and sail with the leeward telltale on the verge of stalling.
5. Effect on the mainsail. If the main is fluttering or backwinding excessively and all other setting are correct, move the headsail lead outboard or change to a flatter or smaller headsail.
6. Using the correct sail. The following table provides a guide for selecting the correct sail.
7. Record the settings. When the boat is sailing fast, record the settings on a Genoa Trim Card.
Mainsail Upwind Trim:
1. Sheet tension and Traveler Position. Tighten the sheet and set the traveler car position so that the boom is roughly on the centerline of the boat. If the boat is getting overpowered (excessive weather helm) let the boom fall to leeward until back under control.
2. Trimming the upper batten. Trim the mainsheet until the top batten is parallel to the boom. Assuming that the main has the correct vertical curvature, draft distribution and sectional shape, this will bring the elements of twist, camber, angle of attack and power to the correct settings. To determine the angle between the top batten and boom, crouch under the boom and sight upward, lining up the reference points.
3. Main telltales. When trimmed correctly, the telltale on the top batten should be streaming aft most of the time and stalling (curling behind the main) once in a while. In ideal conditions--flat water and medium air-- trim the mainsheet harder so that the top telltale is stalled most of the time and the top batten hooks slightly to windward.
4. Leech tension. This is used to control helm and pointing. The tighter the leech the more helm and the higher the boat will point. Remember, however, that you must have speed before shifting into the pointing mode.
5. Traveler position. Use the traveler as the accelerator. When you need more speed, drop the traveler to leeward and foot off a few degrees. Trade speed for pointing by pulling the traveler to windward and pointing higher.
6. Position of maximum draft. The maximum draft should be positioned roughly 48-50% oft from the luff. Move draft forward when power is needed for acceleration or punching through waves. Use the cunningham rope to control the draft position. Pull it just tight enough to remove most of the wrinkles along the luff. New sails may be fastest with a few wrinkles showing.
7. Flatten in heavy air and smooth water. Flatten the main by increasing the amount of mast bend. This is done by increasing backstay tension, which also reduces headstay sag and is desirable. Watch for "overbend wrinkles" that extend from the lower-middle part of the mast to the clew. This indicates that the sail has reached maximum flatness and additional adjustment is overstressing the rig.
8. Fuller main for light air or waves. Increase the fullness of the main for light air or waves by reducing the backstay tension. Be careful not to allow too much headstay sag.
9. Target depth and draft positions.
These are general targets only and need to vary depending on the sail and boat.
Mainsail Downwind trim:
1. Trim for "backwind". Ease the sheet until you just start to see backwind or luffing along the luff edge of the sail. Play the main sheet to keep the sail on the edge of luffing.
2. Outhaul and Cunningham. Ease the outhaul and cunningham to make the sail fuller. The halyard may also need to be eased if vertical wrinkles along the luff are seen.
3. Trimming the upper batten. Adjust the mainsheet and vang so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom. On reaches set the leech so the upper-batten telltale streams aft most of the time. This minimizes backwind from the lower leech of the genoa or spinnaker.
4. Vang. Be careful not to overdo the vang in light and medium air. In these conditions the weight of the boom is enough to provide the leech tension. On heavy-air runs, use lots of vang. This reduces the upper leech twist which makes the boat want to roll. To damped rolling, sheet in.
5. Over powered reach. Leave the outhaul tight. Ease the vang enough to keep the end of boom out of the water when rolling. Dump the sheet when the heel becomes too great. If the boom end drags in the water a lot, reef the main.
6. Light air. Have a crew member hold the boom out, especially if heeling to windward. Make sure the pressure is out and not down.
7. Trimming order. The headsail, genoa or spinnaker is trimmed first. The headsail trimmer must tell the main-trimmer when making a change.
Shifting Gears:
When working to windward, and especially at the start, the sails can be trimmed to maximize; 1) Acceleration, 2) Speed, 3) Pointing and 4) Low Leeway. The following are general guidelines for trimming to each 'gear'. The trim parameters that are adjusted on the main are; Sheeting angle (boom position), Mast bend (backstay tension & checkstay tension), Draft (outhaul), Draft position (cunningham), and Twist (mainsheet). The trim parameters that are adjusted on the foresail are; Lateral Lead (barberhauler), Lead position (lead car), Sheet tension, and Luff tension (halyard).
Acceleration Gear: The objective is increase power, reduce aspect ratio and minimize leeway. Maximum acceleration is required when going from well below the target speed, such as when luffing at the starting line, to the target speed. Mainsail: The boom position is set wide (~6" off the centerline). The backstay tension is reduced and checkstay is tightened, which straightens the mast, increasing the depth of the draft. The draft is made full by easing the outhaul. The draft position is moved as far forward as possible by tensioning the cunningham. The leech of the main is allowed to twist markedly, by easing the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned in-board. The leadcar is set forward of its normal position. The sheet tension is minimal. The luff tension is minimal.
Speed Gear: The objective is to maximize speed while continuing to steer reasonably close to the wind. This gear is used to punch through waves or to work out from a leeward position or to power across the bow of a starboard crossing boat. Mainsail: The boom position is set close (~2" off the centerline). The backstay tension is moderate and checkstay tension is moderate, which bends the mast, decreasing the depth of the draft. The draft is made moderately full by trimming the outhaul. The draft position is moved aft by easing the cunningham. The leech of the main is gradually straightened, by trimming the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned normally. The leadcar is set to its normal position. The sheet tension is moderate. The luff tension is moderate.
Pointing Gear: This gear is used only when the boat is already at the target speed. Shifting into pointing gear when not a full speed will markedly increase leeway and reduce VMG. However, this is a great way to work up on a boat that you are lee-bowing or controlling at the approach to a windward mark. Mainsail: The boom position is set to the centerline. The backstay tension is increased and checkstay tension is minimal, which bends the mast, decreasing the depth of the draft. The draft is further flattened by trimming the outhaul. The draft position is moved aft by easing the cunningham. The leech of the main is straightened as much as possible, by trimming the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned in-board. The leadcar is set to a slightly aft position. The sheet tension is markedly tight. The luff tension is minimal.
Low Leeway Gear: Leeway is of major concern when moving slowly in light air and very heavy air conditions. Fortunately, the trim for the Acceleration gear (the loose, open, twisted leech on both the main and foresails) results in little leeway. Particularly in very light and very heavy air, the flattening of the sails by increasing mast bend gives superior performance. Mainsail: The boom position is set wide (~6" off the centerline). The backstay tension is maximum and checkstay is minimum, which bends the mast, flattening the sail. The draft is made flat by tightening the outhaul. The draft position is moved as far forward as possible by tensioning the cunningham. The leech of the main is allowed to twist moderately, by easing the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned out-board. The leadcar is set aft of its normal position. The sheet tension is moderate. The luff tension is maximum
1. Lead position. This means setting the lead angle and fore-aft position of the sheet lead. The fore-aft lead is positioned by drawing an imaginary line from midluff through the clew to the deck. Midluff is the point at the luff directly ahead of the second set of telltales. Fine-tune the lead position by slowly rounding into the wind and watching the telltales. All the weather telltales should flip up at once, indicating that the top and bottom of the sail are trimmed equally. If the top luffs first, move the lead forward; if the bottom luffs first, move the lead back. It is best to err on the side of too far back. This increases twist and gives the sail a larger "sweet spot".
2. Trim. Trim the sail close to, but not touching, the spreaders. The optimum trim may put the leech slightly in or out from this setting, with some variation according to sea and wind conditions.
3. Halyard Tension. Use halyard tension to pull the draft forward, but do not tension the halyard so much that you get a vertical wrinkle behind the headstay. Never overtension the halyard, watch the halyard marks.
4. Adjustments. In flat water and medium air, trim harder and move the lead angle in-board to flatten the sail and narrow the angle of attack. Tighten the backstay to reduce headstay sag and flatten the entry. In waves, ease the sheet, move the lead outboard, and sail lower angles to maintain speed. Ease the halyard slightly and ease the backstay if the rig doesn't move around too much. For heavy air, move the lead outboard, but keep the sheet and halyard in hard to keep the sail flat. Move the lead aft to free the upper leech and flatten the head--tolerate a slightly earlier luff in the top of the sail if necessary. For very light winds, move the lead outboard, ease the sheet and move the lead forward enough to maintain an even break along the luff. Use light backstay and halyard tension, and sail with the leeward telltale on the verge of stalling.
5. Effect on the mainsail. If the main is fluttering or backwinding excessively and all other setting are correct, move the headsail lead outboard or change to a flatter or smaller headsail.
6. Using the correct sail. The following table provides a guide for selecting the correct sail.
Genoa Wind Ranges
(for reference only, check with your sailmaker!)
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| Sail | Apparent wind range | Maximum Apparent Wind |
| #1 Light | 0-12 | 12 |
| #1 Medium | 6-20 | 20 |
| #1 Heavy | 15-23 | 23 |
| #2 | 21-27 | 27 |
| #3 | 24-34 | 34 |
| #4 | 31-45 | 45 |
7. Record the settings. When the boat is sailing fast, record the settings on a Genoa Trim Card.
GENOA TRIM CARD
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| Genoa: | LOW END | MIDRANGE | HIGH END |
| Wind Range (Kts apparent) | |||
| Maximum Wind Speed (from sailmaker) | |||
| Lead Angle (degrees) | |||
| Lead Position (tape number) | |||
| Distance to Upper Spreader | |||
| Distance to Chainplates | |||
| Depth (% at midstripe) | |||
| Draft Position (% at mid) | |||
| Backstay Tension (Lbs.) | |||
| Halyard Tension (" from mark) | |||
Mainsail Upwind Trim:
1. Sheet tension and Traveler Position. Tighten the sheet and set the traveler car position so that the boom is roughly on the centerline of the boat. If the boat is getting overpowered (excessive weather helm) let the boom fall to leeward until back under control.
2. Trimming the upper batten. Trim the mainsheet until the top batten is parallel to the boom. Assuming that the main has the correct vertical curvature, draft distribution and sectional shape, this will bring the elements of twist, camber, angle of attack and power to the correct settings. To determine the angle between the top batten and boom, crouch under the boom and sight upward, lining up the reference points.
3. Main telltales. When trimmed correctly, the telltale on the top batten should be streaming aft most of the time and stalling (curling behind the main) once in a while. In ideal conditions--flat water and medium air-- trim the mainsheet harder so that the top telltale is stalled most of the time and the top batten hooks slightly to windward.
4. Leech tension. This is used to control helm and pointing. The tighter the leech the more helm and the higher the boat will point. Remember, however, that you must have speed before shifting into the pointing mode.
5. Traveler position. Use the traveler as the accelerator. When you need more speed, drop the traveler to leeward and foot off a few degrees. Trade speed for pointing by pulling the traveler to windward and pointing higher.
6. Position of maximum draft. The maximum draft should be positioned roughly 48-50% oft from the luff. Move draft forward when power is needed for acceleration or punching through waves. Use the cunningham rope to control the draft position. Pull it just tight enough to remove most of the wrinkles along the luff. New sails may be fastest with a few wrinkles showing.
7. Flatten in heavy air and smooth water. Flatten the main by increasing the amount of mast bend. This is done by increasing backstay tension, which also reduces headstay sag and is desirable. Watch for "overbend wrinkles" that extend from the lower-middle part of the mast to the clew. This indicates that the sail has reached maximum flatness and additional adjustment is overstressing the rig.
8. Fuller main for light air or waves. Increase the fullness of the main for light air or waves by reducing the backstay tension. Be careful not to allow too much headstay sag.
9. Target depth and draft positions.
Mainsail: Target
Depths and Draft Positions
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| Apparent Wind (Knots) | Lower Stripe Depth (%) | Lower Stripe Position (%) | Middle Stripe Depth (%) | Middle Stripe Position (%) | Upper Stripe Depth (%) | Upper Stripe Position (%) |
| 3-6 | 14-15 | 45 | 15-16 | 45 | 16-17 | 45 |
| 5-12 | 12 | 50 | 14-15 | 50 | 15-16 | 50 |
| 10-18 | 10 | 50 | 12-13 | 50 | 13-14 | 50 |
| 16-26 | 8-9 | 50 | 11 | 50 | 11 | 50 |
| 24-30 | 9 | 50 | 10 | 50 | 10 | 50 |
These are general targets only and need to vary depending on the sail and boat.
Mainsail Downwind trim:
1. Trim for "backwind". Ease the sheet until you just start to see backwind or luffing along the luff edge of the sail. Play the main sheet to keep the sail on the edge of luffing.
2. Outhaul and Cunningham. Ease the outhaul and cunningham to make the sail fuller. The halyard may also need to be eased if vertical wrinkles along the luff are seen.
3. Trimming the upper batten. Adjust the mainsheet and vang so that the upper batten is parallel to the boom. On reaches set the leech so the upper-batten telltale streams aft most of the time. This minimizes backwind from the lower leech of the genoa or spinnaker.
4. Vang. Be careful not to overdo the vang in light and medium air. In these conditions the weight of the boom is enough to provide the leech tension. On heavy-air runs, use lots of vang. This reduces the upper leech twist which makes the boat want to roll. To damped rolling, sheet in.
5. Over powered reach. Leave the outhaul tight. Ease the vang enough to keep the end of boom out of the water when rolling. Dump the sheet when the heel becomes too great. If the boom end drags in the water a lot, reef the main.
6. Light air. Have a crew member hold the boom out, especially if heeling to windward. Make sure the pressure is out and not down.
7. Trimming order. The headsail, genoa or spinnaker is trimmed first. The headsail trimmer must tell the main-trimmer when making a change.
MAIN TRIM CARD
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| Mainsail: | Light Air | Medium | Heavy Air |
| Wind Range (Kts apparent) | |||
| Top Batten (angle to boom) | |||
| Outhaul (inches to band) | |||
| Cunningham (none, little, hard) | |||
| Depth (% at midstripe) | |||
| Draft Position (% at mid) | |||
| Backstay Tension (Lbs.) | |||
| Boom Position | |||
| Battens | |||
| Rudder Angle (degrees) | |||
Shifting Gears:
When working to windward, and especially at the start, the sails can be trimmed to maximize; 1) Acceleration, 2) Speed, 3) Pointing and 4) Low Leeway. The following are general guidelines for trimming to each 'gear'. The trim parameters that are adjusted on the main are; Sheeting angle (boom position), Mast bend (backstay tension & checkstay tension), Draft (outhaul), Draft position (cunningham), and Twist (mainsheet). The trim parameters that are adjusted on the foresail are; Lateral Lead (barberhauler), Lead position (lead car), Sheet tension, and Luff tension (halyard).
Acceleration Gear: The objective is increase power, reduce aspect ratio and minimize leeway. Maximum acceleration is required when going from well below the target speed, such as when luffing at the starting line, to the target speed. Mainsail: The boom position is set wide (~6" off the centerline). The backstay tension is reduced and checkstay is tightened, which straightens the mast, increasing the depth of the draft. The draft is made full by easing the outhaul. The draft position is moved as far forward as possible by tensioning the cunningham. The leech of the main is allowed to twist markedly, by easing the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned in-board. The leadcar is set forward of its normal position. The sheet tension is minimal. The luff tension is minimal.
Speed Gear: The objective is to maximize speed while continuing to steer reasonably close to the wind. This gear is used to punch through waves or to work out from a leeward position or to power across the bow of a starboard crossing boat. Mainsail: The boom position is set close (~2" off the centerline). The backstay tension is moderate and checkstay tension is moderate, which bends the mast, decreasing the depth of the draft. The draft is made moderately full by trimming the outhaul. The draft position is moved aft by easing the cunningham. The leech of the main is gradually straightened, by trimming the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned normally. The leadcar is set to its normal position. The sheet tension is moderate. The luff tension is moderate.
Pointing Gear: This gear is used only when the boat is already at the target speed. Shifting into pointing gear when not a full speed will markedly increase leeway and reduce VMG. However, this is a great way to work up on a boat that you are lee-bowing or controlling at the approach to a windward mark. Mainsail: The boom position is set to the centerline. The backstay tension is increased and checkstay tension is minimal, which bends the mast, decreasing the depth of the draft. The draft is further flattened by trimming the outhaul. The draft position is moved aft by easing the cunningham. The leech of the main is straightened as much as possible, by trimming the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned in-board. The leadcar is set to a slightly aft position. The sheet tension is markedly tight. The luff tension is minimal.
Low Leeway Gear: Leeway is of major concern when moving slowly in light air and very heavy air conditions. Fortunately, the trim for the Acceleration gear (the loose, open, twisted leech on both the main and foresails) results in little leeway. Particularly in very light and very heavy air, the flattening of the sails by increasing mast bend gives superior performance. Mainsail: The boom position is set wide (~6" off the centerline). The backstay tension is maximum and checkstay is minimum, which bends the mast, flattening the sail. The draft is made flat by tightening the outhaul. The draft position is moved as far forward as possible by tensioning the cunningham. The leech of the main is allowed to twist moderately, by easing the mainsheet, while controlling the boom position with the traveler. Foresail: The lateral lead is positioned out-board. The leadcar is set aft of its normal position. The sheet tension is moderate. The luff tension is maximum
Level 13: Spinnaker Take-down
Windward Takedown :
Note: In each case, the spinnaker is ready for a port-side hoist, out of the hatch.
Preparations: The Genoa will need to be moved from the port rail to the starboard rail. Untie the jib sheets from the clew and tie them together. The Checkstay trimmer them pulls the knot around to the starboard side. The bowman gathers the genoa and loosely rolls it toward the bow. The Guy-guy eases the downhaul to make it easier to get the sail around the front of the downhaul. The genoa is rolled out along the starboard rail and the jib sheets retied to the clew. The starboard sheet is loaded on the primary and handle put in the winch.Jibe Douse:
Reset the Mainsail for closehauled. Check the true windspeed and tension the Main-halyard, Cunningham, and Outhaul in that order to their marks. Ease the Port Genoa Halyard (Fraculator) and tension the Backstay. The bowman scoots forward and releases the fraculator shackle and on his way back releases the Genoa Bungee cord (if used). The forward hatch is opened.
Approaching the mark: The Genoa is hoisted. It should be trimmed in enough to allow the spinnaker to continue to fly. The Spinnaker pole is tripped (Mastman #2 pushes the guy outboard as the chute continues to fre-fly) and stowed with the tip to starboard. The bowman retrieves the portside lazy sheet.
The Douse: Helm calls 'Douse Douse Douse'. The Trimmer gives a huge ease on the sheet. MastMan #1 eases the halyard. Bowman pulls the tack of the spinnaker around the Headstayand down towards the hatch. The bowman works to bring the foot of the spinnaker around the headstay as the Mastman #2 pulls the spinnaker down into the hatch. As soon as the head reaches the hatch, close the hatch. Unhook the halyard and stow it at the mast base. Leaving everything else hookedup. Ease the uphaul (Starboard genoa Halyard) and clip the uphaul bridle under the jib sheets and into the mastring shackle. Call 'Clear to Tack'.
During the upwind leg, reconnect the halyard and re-tape it to the pulpit. Also, insert the starboard sheet and guy in the pole end-fitting.
Preparations: Reset the Mainsail for closehauled. Check the true windspeed and tension the Main-halyard, Cunningham, and Outhaul in that order to their marks. Ease the Port Genoa Halyard (Fraculator) and tension the Backstay. The bowman scoots forward and releases the fraculator shackle and on his way back releases the Genoa Bungee cord (if used). The forward hatch is opened.Leeward Douse: Rounding the right side of a gate (mark to starboard) from starboard tack approach
Approaching the mark: The Genoa is hoisted. It should be trimmed in enough to allow the spinnaker to continue to fly. The Spinnaker pole is tripped (Mastman #2 pushes the guy outboard as the chute continues to fre-fly) and stowed with the tip to starboard. The bowman retrieves the portside lazy guy.
The Douse: Helm calls 'Douse Douse Douse'. The boat starts to jibe as the spinnaker comes down under the genoa. The genoa is jibed over the heads of the Bowman and Mastman#2. The Checkstay Trimmer releases the portside jibsheet. The Guy-guy unloads the guy and loads the starboard jibsheet and trims the genoa in as the boat heads up. The rest of the douse is the same as the Windward douse. When the hatch has been closed, there is no need to lower the uphaul until after the next tack onto starboard.
Preparations: Reset the Mainsail for closehauled. Check the true windspeed and tension the Main-halyard, Cunningham, and Outhaul in that order to their marks. Ease the Port Genoa Halyard (Fraculator) and tension the Backstay. The bowman scoots forward and releases the fraculator shackle and on his way back releases the Genoa Bungee cord (if used). The forward hatch is opened.
Approaching the mark: The Genoa is hoisted. It should be trimmed in enough to allow the spinnaker to continue to fly. The bowman retrieves the portside lazy guy.
The Douse: Helm calls 'Douse Douse Douse'. The boat starts to round up as the spinnaker comes down under the genoa on the portside . It is critical that the Guy-guy release the guy so the tack begins to flag out to port.The Genoa is trimmed hard by the Guy-guy. The Mastman #1 eases the halyard faster than for a weather drop, helping to keep the spinnaker from filling.. The spinnaker trimmer comes back to primary winches and resumes duty as jib trimmer. As soon as the chute is down the hatch and the halyard stowed at the mast base, lower the pole and stow it on the starboard side of the boat. Time permitting, lower the uphaul and stow the bridle under the lazy jub sheet.
Note: In each case, the spinnaker is ready for a port-side hoist, out of the hatch.
Level 12: Jibing with the Spinnaker
Dip Jibe:
Preparations: The Checkstay-trimmer (or if needed the Guy-guy) loads the . Mast-man#1 hoists the mastring to the jibemark on the mast. The Spinnaker-trimmer moves to the cockpit at the leeward secondary. The guy-trimmer loads the lazy sheet on the windward secondary and takes in all the slack. The Bow-man takes the lazy guy forward and sits in the pulpit on the windward side. Mast-man#2 unloads all but 1 wrap from the winch and stands ready.
The Spinnaker: The skipper calls 'Jibe Ho'. The Bow-man calls 'TRIP'. The Mast-man#1 pulls the trip cord and calls 'pole down'. Simultaneously, the Checkstay-trimmer takes all the tension on the new sheet and Mast-man#2 eases the uphaul to the mark and then loads wraps on the winch and puts in a handle. Mast-man#1 pulls the pole to bow, lifting it over the pulpit if required. The Bow-man places the new guy in the pole end and calls 'made'. The Bow-man pushes the pole overhead and Mast-man#2 grinds it up. As the pole is rehoisted, the Guy-trimmer moves to the windward primary and takes the tension from the old sheet. The Spinnaker trimmer takes the sheet from the checkstay-trimmer and moves to the windward chainplates.
The Mainsail: As the boat approaches dead-down-wind the mainsheet is eased to the maximum point. When the skipper calls 'Jibe Ho', the sheet is hauled in as fast as possible. In lighter condition the Main-trimmer can just pull over the whole sheet bundle. In heavier conditions he can pull on an intermediate loop or just haul on the bitter end. As soon as the main flops to the other side it must be eased back to the maximum and then re-trimmed for the new course.
Level 11: Spinnaker Trim
Crew positions:
Spinnaker-trimmer (was Genoa-trimmer) with the spinnaker-sheet at the highside chainplates. Checkstay-trimmer at the leeward secondary winch with winch handle in the winch. Guy-guy (was Genoa-tailer) at the windward primary winch. Mast-man#1 at the uphaul winch. Bow-man is on the windward side of the boat looking back to forecast the wind with the lazy-guy in his hand. The rest of the crew is positioned to keep the boat level and on its lines (keep the transom out of the water).Trimming:
Spinnaker trim is a continuous process that involves three functions.See "Understanding Trim", Peter Isler, Sailing World, May 1996 and Chapter 8 of "Racing Crew", Malcolm McKeag & Bill Edgerton, Fernhurst Books, 1995.
1) Set the pole angle. The primary control for this is the guy. To get a rough setting of the angle trim the guy until the pole is perpendicular to the apparent wind. To fine tune the setting, look at the war the spinnaker luff flies as it rises from the end of the pole. If the luff is leaning off to leeward, ease the pole forward. If it's billowing out to windward, square the pole back.
2) Set the pole height. The primary control is the uphaul. The goal is to position the end of the pole so that the tack and clew are level. In light air try raising the pole a few inches to encourage the clew the rise, encouraging lift. When running in a strong breeze, drop the pole a few feet and ease it forward to prevent rolling.
3) Sheet for a curl. The controls for adjusting the curl are the sheet and guy, working together. Ease the sheet until the luff of the spinnaker starts to curl to windward. This shows that the spinnaker is not overtrimmed. Overtrimming is always slow!!!!
Spinnaker trim requires cycling through the three functions constantly, especially if the apparent wind direction is varying. The sheet and guy should never be cleated off! The downhaul must be adjusted as the pole angle and height are adjusted.
Level 10: Bear-away Spinnaker Hoist
The spinnaker sections assume the use of a dip-pole jibe method, with a double ended down-haul lead from the pole end to the cockpit. Further more, it is assumed that we are sailing windward-leewards with marks to port and the genoa is set in the port groove with the port halyard. Adjustments will be needed if headsail changes are made.
Preparations:
Setting up the pole: The pole is already on the mast ring. Set the end of the pole on the starboard side of the boat. The downhaul is already attached to the end of the pole (make sure it does not foul on the dockline chocks). Bring the starboard jib halyard to the mast and close the shackle on the top of the mast-ring car around the line. Clip the halyard to the ring of the uphaul bridle, making sure the lazy jibsheet is over top of the bridle and in front of the halyard. This clears the foredeck for tacking. Now setup the sheets and guys which should already be clipped to the lifeline at the bag location on the port side. If the sheets and guys are on the starboard rail, clip them together and run them around the forestay to the bag location and clip them to the rail. Clip BOTH the starboard sheet and starboard guy into the pole end-fitting, making sure to bring the loop inside the pulpit and below the lower railing.Hoist the Pole:
Setting up the sailbag: Clip the spinnaker bag to the port rail. Attach the sheet and guys. The sheet shackle goes on the clew-ring and the guy shackle clips to the ring of the sheet shackle (this allows for dropping the guy in light conditions). Bring the starboard spinnaker halyard from the mast-base and clip it to the head of the sail (on starboard tack, just come forward and around the headstay, on port tack, come back around the leach of the jib and then forward around the headstay). Using electrical tape, tape the halyard to the pulpit with one wrap. Leave enough slack so the jib does not get distorted by the halyard.
Crew positions: Bow-man tending to the spinnaker bag, guy and sheet (stays back at the mast unless needed in the bow). Mast-man#1 tending to uphaul and spinnaker halyard. Mast-man#2 tending to spinnaker halyard and releasing the jib halyard. Jib-trimmer at the leeward primary winch. Jib-tailer at the windward primary winch. Checkstay-trimmer in the hotbox
When the boat is on starboard tack and on the layline approaching the windward mark, the Skipper calls 'On the Layline'. The helm continues to call out the distance to the mark in boatlengths, 20 lengths, 10 lengths, 5 lengths, 2 lengths, 1 length, Rounding. Mast-man#2 opens the shackle on uphaul and reclips it with the jib sheet inside the halyard, he then opens the shackle on the top of the mast-ring car freeing the uphaul. Mast-man#1 hoists the uphaul to take out slack. The bowman calls the pole hoist based on the Mast-man team and how long they need. The object is to have enough time, but to hoist as late as possible. If a last minute tack is needed, it is imperative that the pole be on the deck.Hoist the Spinnaker:
The bowman calls HOIST the POLE then Mast-Man#2 hoists the mastring to the mark on the mast as the tip of the pole is rasied (the ideal hoist has the pole moving parallel to the water). The Jib-trimmer and Jib-tailer make sure that the guy remains slack. The downhaul must be set on its marks to allow it to be poled aft. When the pole reaches a horizontal position, Mast-man#1 calls 'pole hoisted'. The Genoa-tailor (now known as the Guy-guy) loads the guy on the windward primary winch and the Checksay-trimmer loads the sheet on the leeward secondary winch. All slack is pulled out of the sheets and guys, without pulling the sail out of the bag. The cockpit crew calls 'ready to hoist'. Now we wait until the boat reaches the windward mark.
At the 2 boatlength distance, the Genoa-trimmer hands off the jibsheet to the Checkstay-trimmer and moves forward to the starboard-side chainplates with the spinnaker sheet. The Guy-guy hauls of both the starboard sheet and guy as the bowman feeds the tack to the jaw on the pole. This is called 'cheating the guy'. The bowman holds the sail tight against the lee side of the jib.
As the boat clears the mark, the Main Trimmer 'dumps' the main-sheet and the jib is eased, keeping it in perfect trim. The Skipper calls 'Hoist the Spinnaker'. Mast-man#2 jumps the halyard, breaking the tape on the pulpit and rocketing the sail to a full hoist. the Mast-man#2 is pulling the halyard through the stopper and has 1 wrap on the winch. As the head of the sail nears the top of the mast, the Guy-guy trims the guy bringing the pole aft. The Genoa-trimmer keeps very light tension on the spinnakersheet and waits to trim the sheet until he sees the mast-men have a full hoist or need to grind the last few feet of halyard. The trimmer then trims the chute..
Douse the Jib: As soon as the cute hoist is underway the Bow-man moves back to the jib halyard stopper and releases the halyard, immediately lowering the jib. The Bow-man scoots forward and pulls the sail down the TUFFLUFF while Mast-man#2 come over from the starboard side of the boat and help collect the sail on deck and secures it under the bungee cord. The Bow-man refeeds the lufftape of the genoa through the pre-feeder, the feeder and into the TUFFLUFF and clips the fraculator line shackle around the halyard, above the halyard's stopper ball. The Checkstay-Trimmer eases the backstay all the way and calls 'Backstay Eased". Mast-man #2 grinds the masthead forward. Mast-man #1 eases the Outhaul, re-sets the vang. Mast-man #2 Eases the main-halyard for down-wind settings..
Level 9: Reefing and Shanking out a reef on the Mainsail
Reefing:
Crew Positions: Mast-man#1 at the reefingline stopper (located on the boom at the gooseneck). Checkstay-trimmer is at the secondary winch. Mast-man#2 at the main halyard stopper and winch. Bow-man is tailing the main halyard. Main-trimmer at the mainsheet.Un-Reefing:
The Maneuver: The skipper gives the command 'ready to reef the main'. The crew goes to the assigned positions. Mast-man#1 hands the reefline and passes it back to the hotbox. The checkstay-trimmer takes wraps on the winch on the same side as the turning block (may require releasing the checkstay). The Crew-boss calls out 'Ready to reef the main'. On the skippers command, Mast-man#1 releases the boomvang and the Main-trimmer eases the main sheet. Mast-man#2 eases the main halyard while the Mast-man#1 pulls the luff of the main down. Hotbox winches in the reefing line just enough to keep the boom level and minimize flapping of the leach. When the sail has been lowered far enough for the tack-cringle to slide over the reefing hook, the Mast-man#1 does so and calls 'tack is on'. Mast-man#2 winches up the main halyard until the desired luff tension is reached. Hotbox winches the reefing line until the new clew is at the boom. The Main-trimmer may need to allow the main to luff to reduce tension on the reefing line at the end. The Main-trimmer retrims the mainsail, the boomvang is re-applied as needed. The reefline is re-coiled and stowed at the mast. The crew clears the deck and moves back to the windward rail.
The foot of the sail can be folded over the boom to reduce windage and improve visibility for the helmsman.
Crew Positions: Mast-man#1 at the reefingline stopper (gooseneck). Mast-man#2 at the main halyard stopper and winch. Bow-man at the mast, tending the mainsail tack. Main-trimmer at the mainsheet.
The Maneuver: The skipper gives the command 'ready to un-reef the main'. The crew goes to the assigned positions. Mast-man#1 un-coils the reefline and passes it back to the hotbox and the Crew-boss calls out 'Ready to un-reef the main'. Mast-man #1 eases the reefing line and Mast-man#2 eases the main halyard until the Bow-man can slide the reef-ring off the reefing hook. A quick ease of the mainsheet to luff the mainsail may be needed. The Bow-man calls 'tack is off' when the ring is free. Mast-man#2 winches the main halyard while Mast-man#1 releases the reefing line and the Main-trimmer eases the mainsheet as needed to allow a complete hoist. The bowman guides the luff bolt-rope into the mast groove. When the mainsail luff tension is correct, Mast-man#2 calls 'main is hoisted' and the Main-trimmer retrims the mainsail. The crew clears the deck and moves back to the windward rail.
Level 8: Genoa Sail Changes
Bare-Headed Change:
Bring the bag for the old jib on deck and secure it to the leeward rail. Make sure the zipper is run to the aft end of the bag. Bring the new jib on deck, secure the bag on leeward rail on top of the old jib bag, attach the TACK to the stem-plate. Release the jib halyard bringing the old jib down on the leeward deck, piling it inboard of the new jib bag. Bowman goes forward to pull the sail down out of the TUFFLUFF groove. As soon as he can reach it, the bowman unhooks the halyard from the old jib and hooks on the head of the new jib. The lufftape is started through the pre-feeder, feeder and into the groove. The sheets are detached from the clew and bowlined onto the new jib. As soon as the bowlines are completed, hoist the new jib. Trim lead cars and the sail. Stow the bag for the new jib below (run the zipper aft and fold from fore to aft). Flake the old jib into its bag, detaching the TACK from the stemplate and stow it below.Inside Hoist/Outside Drop (IH/OD):
Used when on Starboard tack and jib in Port slot OR on Port tack and jib in Starboard slot. Bring the new jib on deck and secure the bag to the leeward lifelines. Attach the Tack to the stemplate. Attach windward halyard (stored at mast base) to the head of the jib. Make sure the bag zipper is 'peeling' and feed the jib lufftape through the pre-feeder, feeder and into the unused groove, pull the slack out of the halyard so the head is 3-4 feet into the TUFFLUFF. While this happening, untie the lazy sheet and if required (change from Genoa to jib or vice versa) bring the lazy sheet over to the windward rail and reeve it through the proper fairlead. Bowline the lazy sheet to the new jib. Using a changing sheet, reeve it through the proper fairleads and bowline it onto the CLEW. Lead the changing sheet around the back of the leeward primary winch and cross-sheet it to the windward primary winch.Outside Hoist/Inside Drop (OH/ID):
Hoist the new jib. Trim the sail on the windward primary. As soon as the new jib is up and drawing, lower the old jib, pulling it under the foot of the new jib and over the top of the life lines. A quick ease of the sheet will help the crew. As the old jib is coming down, unload the leeward primary winch. As soon as the head comes out of the TUFFLUFF, disconnect the halyard and clip it onto the leeward pulpit ring. Remove the sheet from the clew of the old jib, run it through the proper fairlead(s) and bowline it to the clew of the new jib. Load the sheet onto the leeward primary winch and take the load that was on the changing sheet. Disconnect the changing sheet and stow it below. Stow the bag for the new jib. Bring the bag for the old jib on deck and flake the sail into it (stay on the high side if the boat is heeled). Stow the bag with the old jib below.
On the next tack, the bowman will scoot forward to retrieve the spare halyard, now clipped to the pulpit and stow it at the mast base.
Used when on Starboard tack and jib is in Starboard groove OR on Port tack and jib is in Port groove. Bring the new jib on deck and secure the bag to the leeward lifelines. Attach the TACK to the stemplate. Attach the leeward halyard from the mast base, running it back aft of the leach of the old jib and outside the sail to the head of the jib. Make sure the bag zipper is 'peeling' and start to feed the jib lufftape through the pre-feeder, feeder and into the groove, pull the slack out of the halyard so the head is 3-4 feet into the TUFFLUFF.Tack Change (TC):
Using a changing sheet, reeve it through the proper fairleads and bowline it onto the CLEW. Lead the changing sheet around the back of the leeward primary winch and cross-sheet it to the windward primary winch. While this happening, untie the lazy sheet and if required (change from Genoa to jib or vice versa) bring the lazy sheet over to the windward rail and reeve it through the proper fairlead. Bowline the lazy sheet to the new jib.
Hoist the new jib. Trim the sail on the windward primary winch. As soon as the new jib is up, lower the old jib, watching that it stays on-board and folds if possible. As soon as the heard of the sail comes out of the TUFFLUFF disconnect the halyard and stow it onto the windward pulpit ring. Remove the sheet from the clew of the old jib, run it through the proper fairlead(s) and bowline it to the clew of the new jib. Load the sheet onto the leeward primary winch and take the load that was on the changing sheet. Disconnect the changing sheet and stow it below. Stow the bag for the new jib below. Flake the old jib into its bag and stow the bagged sail below.
Prior to the next tack, the bowman retrieves the spare hapyard from the pulpit and stows it at the mastbase.
Used only under the same conditions as an IH/OD, except that the boat is tacked allowing for an Inside Drop. Bring the new jib on deck and secure it to the windward rail. Attach the TACK to the stemplate. Attach windward halyard (stored at mast base) to the head of the jib. Make sure the bag zipper is 'peeling' and start to feed the jib lufftape through the pre-feeder, the feeder and into the groove, pull the slack out of the halyard so the head is 3-4 feet into the TUFFLUFF.Things to watch out for:
While this happening, undo the lazy sheet from the old jib, refeed it through the fairleads is needed and bowline it onto the clew of the new jib. Position the windward lead car for the new jib. Hoist the new jib. The boat will be tacked a bit slower than normal. A soon as the old jib is luffing, release the old jib halyard and give a quick tug on the luff at the bow, the sail should tumble down on the deck. The new jib is trimmed as normal on the leeward primary winch.
Detach the remaining sheet from the old jib, change fairleads if required and bowline it onto the new jib. Set the now windward lead car to the correct position. Disconnect the old jib halyardand stow it at the base of the mast. Bag the old jib and stow it below. Stow the bag for the new jib below.
Always check aloft to make sure that the halyards are running free. Before attaching the halyard to the head of the sail, make sure that the sail is not twisted in the bag by following the luff tape from tack to head with your fingers. Make every effort to keep the sail from dropping outside the lifelines (especially on an Outside Drop). If the sails are wet and stick together, lift the foot of the inside sail to allow wind to separate them and pull down hard on the luff.
Drill: On a day of light to moderate breeze, start with the #1Light in the starboard groove and closehauled on starboard tack. OH/ID to the #1Heavy. Tack Change to the #3. OH/ID to the #1Light. Tack Change to the #1Heavy. Tack. IH/OD to the #1Light. This drill can be repeated in heavier air using the #2, #3 and #4 jibs.
Level 7: Man-Over-Board Maneuvers
Should you see someone fall overboard YELL 'MAN
OVERBOARD' move to place outside the Boom Envelope
while keeping your eye
on the MOB, stand (if possible and point to the MOB. NEVER take
your eye off the MOB and CONTINUE
TO POINT to the MOB until they are retrieved. The helmsman or
maintrimmer deploys the 'horse-shoe, MOB-pole, strobe' package as
quickly as possible. The Mastman prepares to Genoa-halyard for a douse.
The helmsman initiates a turn to windward. As soon as the Genoa stops
drawing it is doused. The Mainsheet is hauled all the way on, so the
boom is centered and held there.
As the boat tacks, the Mainsail is held at the centerline. Continue to turn until running nearly downwind to a point where the boat can be jibed and sailed nearly closehauled back to the MOB. As you approach the MOB ease the mainsail to reduce speed so that the boat is nearly at a standstill when you make contact with the MOB.
Depending on the size and condition of the crewman in the water, it may necessary to haul him aboard with a tackle. Use a Spinnaker Halyard to set the tackle.
In case of difficult conditions, the lifesling should be deployed. Steer the boat in circles around the MOB until he can reach the lifesling. Using the hoisting tackle, bring the victim aboard.
Once the MOB is aboard, bring him/her below and assess their medical condition. Apply first aid, warming blankets and other measures as needed. If there is a medical emergency requiring outside assistance, declare a MAYDAY on channel 16 of the VHF and work with the Coast Guard to get assistance.
As soon as possible, lower all sails and engage the engine
Additional information on use and deployment of a Life Sling from US Sailing.
Additional information on the quickstop from US Sailing.
There are several types of MOB manouvers. USCG website have good descriptions of them. It is MANDATORY that the crew practice at least 2 MOBs per month. Use a fender as a victim. Practice with and without the skipper taking an active role.
As the boat tacks, the Mainsail is held at the centerline. Continue to turn until running nearly downwind to a point where the boat can be jibed and sailed nearly closehauled back to the MOB. As you approach the MOB ease the mainsail to reduce speed so that the boat is nearly at a standstill when you make contact with the MOB.
Depending on the size and condition of the crewman in the water, it may necessary to haul him aboard with a tackle. Use a Spinnaker Halyard to set the tackle.
In case of difficult conditions, the lifesling should be deployed. Steer the boat in circles around the MOB until he can reach the lifesling. Using the hoisting tackle, bring the victim aboard.
Once the MOB is aboard, bring him/her below and assess their medical condition. Apply first aid, warming blankets and other measures as needed. If there is a medical emergency requiring outside assistance, declare a MAYDAY on channel 16 of the VHF and work with the Coast Guard to get assistance.
As soon as possible, lower all sails and engage the engine
Additional information on use and deployment of a Life Sling from US Sailing.
Additional information on the quickstop from US Sailing.
There are several types of MOB manouvers. USCG website have good descriptions of them. It is MANDATORY that the crew practice at least 2 MOBs per month. Use a fender as a victim. Practice with and without the skipper taking an active role.
Level 6: Jibing (jib and main)
Preparation: Helmsman calls 'Prepare To Jibe', crew moves into position, Checkstay-trimmer positioned at companionway, Main-trimmer positioned at traveler, Genoa-trimmer at the leeward winch (handle removed) and Genoa-tailer positioned at windward primary winch(sheet loaded and handle in), Bow-man positioned at leeward chainplates. Note the boat speed, this is the target speed. If the genoa is poled out, the pole is unhooked and centered on the foredeck.
Jibing: Crewboss calls 'Ready To Jibe', Helmsman begins a steady turn and calls 'Jibing', when the genoa collapses the Genoa-trimmer removes the winch handle and releases the sheet and the Bow-man walks the clew to the other side of the boat. The Checkstay-trimmer releases the windward checkstay, the genoa-tailer trims the new sheet.
As the course reaches Dead-Downwind the Main-trimmer calls 'Watch The Boom' and hauls in on the mainsheet as fast as possible (depending on conditions he can grab all the 'parts' or just one of the parts to get more power), when the mainsail fills on the new side the Main-trimmer releases the mainsheet until the sail reaches the proper trim and the Checkstay-trimmer adjusts the new windward checkstay. Trim the Maisail and Genoa and replace the pole on the new tack if needed. Trim the sails until the boat reaches the target speed. Other crew changes position to keep the boat level by moving over the cabintop. Everyone stays out of the Boom Envelope.
Jibing Drill: Perform 10 jibes in a row. The next jibe starts as soon as the boat has come back to the target speed.
Level 5: Tacking
Closehauled to Closehauled: Skipper calls out 'Trimmer in the pit'. The Genoa-trimmer sitting at the aft end of the stack moves off the rail and loads the windward winch with the sheet and handle, if it has not already been done. He also moves the fairlead car forward to the 'power position'. The genoa trimmer moves to the active winch and removes the winch handle, checks with his team-mates and calls 'ready'. The helmsman can now start the tack at any time. As the turn is started, call 'helms a-lee' as a cue for the rest of the crew. Everyone continues to hike hard until the boat stands up. The Checkstay-trimmer moves off the rail to the companionway and loads the leeward checkstay and handle onto the leeward secondary winch.The Bow-man moves to front of mast, staying 'inside' the lazy genoa sheet and facing forward. When the Genoa backwinds and the bubble works its way back from the luff to the top spreader the Genoa trimmer flips the turns off the winch and releases the jib sheet. The backwind pressure on the Genoa will pull the clew straight forward, shooting it forward of the chainplates. At this point the Genoa-trimmer releases the sheet and turns around, ready to tail the new genoa-sheet. The Bow-man tosses the clew around the mast and outside the shrouds. The Checkstay-trimmer releases the checkstay and trims the new windward checkstay to the 'power setting' as soon as the boom crosses the boat centerline. The Checkstay-trimmer moves up onto the rail at this point. The Genoa-tailer hauls in slack from the 'new' sheet, and passes the tail of the 'new' sheet to the Genoa-trimmer. The Genoa-tailer grinds the sheet to the 'power setting' mark, as the bow-man 'skirts' the foot of the sail inside the lifelines. The Genoa-tailer then takes control of the tail which allows the Genoa-trimmer to move up to the rail, putting the final wraps on the winch and preparing to shift from power to point mode.
Concurrent with these activities, the Main-trimmer pulls the traveler up as the boat starts to turn and then moves the traveler to the 'power setting' (lower than pointing) for the other tack, while in irons and eases mainsheet slightly as the main starts drawing.
Now that the boat is on the new tack and trimmed for 'power', it will accelerate to the target speed. As it approachs the target speed, the Genoa-tailer will ease the fairlead back to the 'point setting' and sheet in, he will also ease the checkstay to reduce the draft in the mainsail and the Main-trimmer will trim the mainsheet and bring the traveler up. These actions will shift gears to a 'point mode'.
The remaining crew remains hiked out on the windward rail until the last possible moment and scrambles across the boat under the boom and over the cabin top quickly and quietly, keeping her level.
Tacking to/from other courses: When tacking from courses other the close hauled, trim is adjusted as the boat heads up so that she is properly trimmed for closehauled just before going into irons. When tacking to courses other the closehauled, trim is adjusted starting from the closehauled setup as the boat bears off to the new course. If the trim lags behind the course change, do not over trim, just go to the marks for the final course (this occurs when maneuvering in tight quarters, like at the start).
Level 4: Basic sail-trin on JAM courses
Use the Northsails Tuning guide to provide setup for each course. At level 13 we will go beyond the guide. The goal is to be able to repeatably setup the same trim.
Close Hauled to Reaching trimming drill: Steer a closehauled course, setup according to conditions and tuning guide, note/mark control line positions, steer a reaching course, setup according to conditions and tuning guide, note/mark control line positions, announce alter course and trim from closehauled to reaching 10 times, hold at each course until boat speed reaches the polar-target and then sail at target speed for 5 minutes.
Silent drill: Skipper will vary the course with NO ANNOUNCEMENT and hold until the trim has been reset and boat speed is at polar target speed, crew is expected to communicate amongst themselves.
Level 3: Sailiing in a straight line
Crew Position:
Close Hauled: Line up on the windward rail starting at the chainplates. Typical positions on the rail when ther is breeze are: Bow-man, Mastman#1, Mastman#2, Checkstay-trimmer and Genoa-tailer. The Genoa-trimmer, remains at the leeward primary winch. The Main- trimmer sits at the front of cockpit and the Helmsman sits even with the traveler. In light conditions crew moves to the leeward rail to keep the optimum heel angle. In ultra-light conditions, crew goes below and sits as near the forward bulkhead as possible, use the inclinometer to keep the heel angle at optimum.
Reaching: When reaching in a Jib-and-Main configuration, positions are as described in the Close Hauled section. When reaching with the spinnaker, the Genoa Trimmer becomes the Spinaker Trimmer and positions at the chainplates (use the shrouds for stability). The Checkstay Trimmer remains in the hotbox and grinds the leeward secondary winch as needed to trim the chute. The Genoa-tailer becomes the Afterguy Trimmer and is positioned at the windward primary winch. The Main-Trimmer and Helmsman move back just enough to give them room. The rest of the crew is positioned for optimum heel and keeping the fore-aft trim level.
Running: The Bow-man sits forward of the mast. Mastman#1 sits at the winch for the spinnaker uphaul. The Genoa-trimmer moves forward to the windward chainplates with the spinnaker sheet and trims the sheet. The Genoa-tailer is stationed at the windward primary winch to trim the afterguy. The Checkstay-trimmer crouches in the hotbox and grinds the leeward secondary winch as needed. The Main-Trimmer and Helmsman move back just enough to give them room. The rest of the crew is positioned for optimum heel and keeping the fore-aft trim level.
Hiking: Sit heavy with legs outboard and torso over the lower life-line and under the upper life-line. For extra hiking move butts toward the rail.
Helmsmanship: Steer the boat in a straight line for 2 minutes at each major course. Call out trim changes required to compensate for weather/leeward helm conditions.
Level 2: Hoisting and Dousing the Main and Genoa
Before we can go sailing we have attached the sails to the boat properly
Bend-on the Main: For a Mainsail with a foot-shelf, unroll the sail on the foredeck with the clew near the mast. Load the foot of the sail into the slot on the top of the boom, starting at the gooseneck with the clew, and pull the clew toward the end of the boom, feeding the bolt-rope smoothly into the slot as you go. When the ring at the tack lines up with the hole in the reefing hooks at the gooseneck, slide the bayonet pin through the fitting and the sail. Fasten the clew with the shackle on the outhaul car at the end of the boom. Attach the outhaul shackle to the clew of the sail. For a loose footed main, everything is the same, except that there is no bolt-rope on the foot, so you can simply attach at the tack and clew. Insert the battens. Different mains have different batten pocket constructions. With tapered battens, always insert the thin (flexible) end first. Run the reefing lines through the cringle on the leech of the sail and back down to the boom. The reefing lines are lashed around the boom with a bowline. Tape off the tail of the bowline to prevent it shaking loose when the sail luffs. Flake or roll the sail and secure it with sail-ties, using slipping half-hitches. Cover the sail with the sail-cover to prevent exposure to UV and so our fans can see the boat-name.
Bend-on the Genoa: Locate the correct sail bag in the cabin and bring in on deck through the companionway hatch. Feeding the clew end out first makes things easier. Depending on the type of hoist, set the bag on the correct rail with the tack forward and tie the bag to the life-lines. Open the forward zipper and clip the tack to the semi-circular ring at the bow. Tie on the sheets using bowlines (tied so that the tails are to the inside of the loops and the loops are short). Reeve the sheets around the proper side of the shrouds (outside for #1, #2 and inside for #3, #4) and through the lead cars (aft only for #1, #2 and both fore and aft for #3, #4). Set genoa leads to the correct marks. Attach the appropriate halyard (keep light tension on it at all times) to the head of the sail and start the luff-tape through the feeder and into the appropriate groove of the tuff-luff. Run the aft-zipper off the end (towards the bow) and 'break it open'. Pass the word back to the cockpit, "Foredeck ready to hoist #?". Make sure they acknowledge.
Hoisting the Main: Remove the sail-cover and stow it below. Ease the Main Halyard and allow the boom to rest on the Vang. Open the main halyard shackle at the clew and pass the halyard forward (keep it inside the check-stays). Attach the Main Halyard to the headboard with the threads to port and the finger knob to starboard and prefeed the luff through the pre-feeder and into the boltrope slot in the mast, while taking in the slack all the time. Pass the word back to the cockpit, "Ready to hoist the Mainsail". When ordered to "READY TO HOIST", remove all sail-ties and give them to the crew at the hotbox, who will hang them on the companionway handholds. The helmsman stands straddling the tiller and holds the checkstays apart so that they don't foul on the leech as the Mainsail is hoisted. As the helmsman bring the boat into the wind and reduces speed to the minimum required for steerage, release the boom-vang and the outhaul. Ease the main sheet as required to keep the sail luffing.
When ordered to "HOIST" jump the main-halyard at the mast. This requires one crew member to pull down on the halyard from the mast-exit towards the turning block at the base of the mast, while another crew member is tailing off the winch. As the boltrope in the luff of the mainsail feeds into the slot on the mast, make sure that it does not 'jump out'. A steady hoisting speed is required. As the headboard approaches the check-stay attachment points on the mast, do not foul the check-stays on the headboard. Keeping the boat head-to-wind and keeping tension and separation of the check-stays will help. If needed lower the halyard and to clear the foul, and try again. When the tension becomes too great, the 'jumper' can grab the halyard halfway between the mast-exit and the turning block and pull the halyard away from the mast (one foot near the chainplates and one foot near the turning block by the mast adds leverage) as the tailer holds the halyard form slipping on the winch and then as the jumper quickly snaps the halyard back toward the mast the tailer takes up the new slack. Working together like this often results in a complete hoist without need for grinding the winch. If required, winch the halyard to the appropriate mark. Trim the outhaul, and trim the boom-vang as required, before the sail loads up. Bear off and trim the main sheet.
Hoisting the Genoa: Jump the halyard, as described above, to the mark. The aft zipper will split open as the leach of the sail emerges further aft. Trim the genoa sheet. Remove bag from the rail and pass it to the hotbox. Fold the bag starting with the tack end and stow it below.
Lowering the Genoa: The technique for lowering the genoa depends entirely on the type of sail change being made. See Level #8 for details. The objective is to get the sail down on deck, inside the life-lines, quickly. If it is possible to "flake" the sail on the way down, that is good, but not at the expense of speed or flogging. The sail can be flaked and packed in its bag later if required. The doused sail should be flaked and bagged as soon as practical. Pass the bagged sail back to the companionway hatch or down the forward hatch and stow it below.
Lowering the Main: Whenever possible the helmsman will bring the boat to a course 5 degrees off head-to-wind. The main-sheet should be tightened to prevent the boom from swinging. Ease the halyard and dump the sail on the leeward deck. Unhook the halyard shackle from the head-board and pass it back so it can attach on the clew ring of the sail. Ease the mainsheet and release the vang. Hoist the mainhalyard until the boom is parallel to the waterline. Tension the mainsheet and center the traveler car. To roll the sail start at the uppermid-draft stripe and roll the sail on the opposite side of the boom from the 'pile'. The sail will 'flow over boom into the roll. Make sure the luff end is rolled tight and that the battens are not bent. If needed, disconnect the tack pin to finish the roll at the clew. Secure the roll with 5 sail ties, so that it hangs evenly under the boom with a minimum of creases. Retrieve the sail cover from below decks and cover the sail.
Bend-on the Main: For a Mainsail with a foot-shelf, unroll the sail on the foredeck with the clew near the mast. Load the foot of the sail into the slot on the top of the boom, starting at the gooseneck with the clew, and pull the clew toward the end of the boom, feeding the bolt-rope smoothly into the slot as you go. When the ring at the tack lines up with the hole in the reefing hooks at the gooseneck, slide the bayonet pin through the fitting and the sail. Fasten the clew with the shackle on the outhaul car at the end of the boom. Attach the outhaul shackle to the clew of the sail. For a loose footed main, everything is the same, except that there is no bolt-rope on the foot, so you can simply attach at the tack and clew. Insert the battens. Different mains have different batten pocket constructions. With tapered battens, always insert the thin (flexible) end first. Run the reefing lines through the cringle on the leech of the sail and back down to the boom. The reefing lines are lashed around the boom with a bowline. Tape off the tail of the bowline to prevent it shaking loose when the sail luffs. Flake or roll the sail and secure it with sail-ties, using slipping half-hitches. Cover the sail with the sail-cover to prevent exposure to UV and so our fans can see the boat-name.
Bend-on the Genoa: Locate the correct sail bag in the cabin and bring in on deck through the companionway hatch. Feeding the clew end out first makes things easier. Depending on the type of hoist, set the bag on the correct rail with the tack forward and tie the bag to the life-lines. Open the forward zipper and clip the tack to the semi-circular ring at the bow. Tie on the sheets using bowlines (tied so that the tails are to the inside of the loops and the loops are short). Reeve the sheets around the proper side of the shrouds (outside for #1, #2 and inside for #3, #4) and through the lead cars (aft only for #1, #2 and both fore and aft for #3, #4). Set genoa leads to the correct marks. Attach the appropriate halyard (keep light tension on it at all times) to the head of the sail and start the luff-tape through the feeder and into the appropriate groove of the tuff-luff. Run the aft-zipper off the end (towards the bow) and 'break it open'. Pass the word back to the cockpit, "Foredeck ready to hoist #?". Make sure they acknowledge.
Hoisting the Main: Remove the sail-cover and stow it below. Ease the Main Halyard and allow the boom to rest on the Vang. Open the main halyard shackle at the clew and pass the halyard forward (keep it inside the check-stays). Attach the Main Halyard to the headboard with the threads to port and the finger knob to starboard and prefeed the luff through the pre-feeder and into the boltrope slot in the mast, while taking in the slack all the time. Pass the word back to the cockpit, "Ready to hoist the Mainsail". When ordered to "READY TO HOIST", remove all sail-ties and give them to the crew at the hotbox, who will hang them on the companionway handholds. The helmsman stands straddling the tiller and holds the checkstays apart so that they don't foul on the leech as the Mainsail is hoisted. As the helmsman bring the boat into the wind and reduces speed to the minimum required for steerage, release the boom-vang and the outhaul. Ease the main sheet as required to keep the sail luffing.
When ordered to "HOIST" jump the main-halyard at the mast. This requires one crew member to pull down on the halyard from the mast-exit towards the turning block at the base of the mast, while another crew member is tailing off the winch. As the boltrope in the luff of the mainsail feeds into the slot on the mast, make sure that it does not 'jump out'. A steady hoisting speed is required. As the headboard approaches the check-stay attachment points on the mast, do not foul the check-stays on the headboard. Keeping the boat head-to-wind and keeping tension and separation of the check-stays will help. If needed lower the halyard and to clear the foul, and try again. When the tension becomes too great, the 'jumper' can grab the halyard halfway between the mast-exit and the turning block and pull the halyard away from the mast (one foot near the chainplates and one foot near the turning block by the mast adds leverage) as the tailer holds the halyard form slipping on the winch and then as the jumper quickly snaps the halyard back toward the mast the tailer takes up the new slack. Working together like this often results in a complete hoist without need for grinding the winch. If required, winch the halyard to the appropriate mark. Trim the outhaul, and trim the boom-vang as required, before the sail loads up. Bear off and trim the main sheet.
Hoisting the Genoa: Jump the halyard, as described above, to the mark. The aft zipper will split open as the leach of the sail emerges further aft. Trim the genoa sheet. Remove bag from the rail and pass it to the hotbox. Fold the bag starting with the tack end and stow it below.
Lowering the Genoa: The technique for lowering the genoa depends entirely on the type of sail change being made. See Level #8 for details. The objective is to get the sail down on deck, inside the life-lines, quickly. If it is possible to "flake" the sail on the way down, that is good, but not at the expense of speed or flogging. The sail can be flaked and packed in its bag later if required. The doused sail should be flaked and bagged as soon as practical. Pass the bagged sail back to the companionway hatch or down the forward hatch and stow it below.
Lowering the Main: Whenever possible the helmsman will bring the boat to a course 5 degrees off head-to-wind. The main-sheet should be tightened to prevent the boom from swinging. Ease the halyard and dump the sail on the leeward deck. Unhook the halyard shackle from the head-board and pass it back so it can attach on the clew ring of the sail. Ease the mainsheet and release the vang. Hoist the mainhalyard until the boom is parallel to the waterline. Tension the mainsheet and center the traveler car. To roll the sail start at the uppermid-draft stripe and roll the sail on the opposite side of the boom from the 'pile'. The sail will 'flow over boom into the roll. Make sure the luff end is rolled tight and that the battens are not bent. If needed, disconnect the tack pin to finish the roll at the clew. Secure the roll with 5 sail ties, so that it hangs evenly under the boom with a minimum of creases. Retrieve the sail cover from below decks and cover the sail.
Level 1: The Boat
These are items and terms that you need to know.....
Directions:
Port, Starboard, Windward, Leeward
Sails:
Main, Genoa, Spinnaker, Luff, Leech, Foot, Tack, Clew, Head
Standing Rigging:
Mast, Boom, Spinnaker pole, Boom Vang, Side Stay, Checkstay, Forestay, Backstay, Chainplates, Turnbuckles, Backstay adjuster, Spreaders
Running Rigging:
Main Halyard, Genoa Halyards, Spinnaker Halyards, Jib Sheet, Main Sheet (coarse & fine), Spinnaker Guy, Spinnaker Sheet, Spinnaker Pole Uphaul, Spinnaker Pole Downhaul, Mastring Halyard, Cunningham rope, Outhaul, Reefing lines, Fairlead sheet, Twings
Points of sail:
Port-tack, Starboard-tack, Close Hauled, Close Reach, Reach, Broad Reach, Run
Safety:
PFD's, Boom Envelope, Liferaft, Lifesling and Lifting Tackle, MOB-pole, VHF Radio
Winch and Line Stopper Operation:
Loading a winch, Grinding, Tailing, Adding a wrap, Easing, Releasing
Instruments:
KVH Fluxgate Compass, OCKAM Instruments, PC based Software, Battery Monitor
Directions:
Port, Starboard, Windward, Leeward
Sails:
Main, Genoa, Spinnaker, Luff, Leech, Foot, Tack, Clew, Head
Standing Rigging:
Mast, Boom, Spinnaker pole, Boom Vang, Side Stay, Checkstay, Forestay, Backstay, Chainplates, Turnbuckles, Backstay adjuster, Spreaders
Running Rigging:
Main Halyard, Genoa Halyards, Spinnaker Halyards, Jib Sheet, Main Sheet (coarse & fine), Spinnaker Guy, Spinnaker Sheet, Spinnaker Pole Uphaul, Spinnaker Pole Downhaul, Mastring Halyard, Cunningham rope, Outhaul, Reefing lines, Fairlead sheet, Twings
Points of sail:
Port-tack, Starboard-tack, Close Hauled, Close Reach, Reach, Broad Reach, Run
Safety:
PFD's, Boom Envelope, Liferaft, Lifesling and Lifting Tackle, MOB-pole, VHF Radio
Winch and Line Stopper Operation:
Loading a winch, Grinding, Tailing, Adding a wrap, Easing, Releasing
Instruments:
KVH Fluxgate Compass, OCKAM Instruments, PC based Software, Battery Monitor
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